(First published 28th November 2012)
We are now into November and seem to be in an awful hurry to reach Christmas. I’m not in a hurry but the rest of the world seems to be. And I appear to be somewhat remiss in that I have neglected to finish the rest of the Qld part of the blog. It continue to be absolutely fantastic.
Before I plunge into this blog (which is well overdue anyway – a bit longer shouldn’t hurt) I do need to thank the people on those stations in the NT and WA who responded to my email of a few weeks ago, apologizing for the length of time it is taking me to cover the research for our book. Most of these people have been lovely enough to respond, telling me that they understand and are still interested in participating – so they are still very definitely ‘in’ for next year. There are still two stations in SA and one in NSW to cover yet. During my research trips I have also been given heaps of info and contact details for various people – as yet I have not contacted many but will be doing so. This includes those amazing retired pastoralists who are, or were, joining in. I had hoped to do most of this contacting when I returned from Qld but a few unexpected things have happened which have caused more than a few hiccups.
Drought.
But our book is far too important to me and I believe to all those that I have already met throughout our mighty outback. I also thank those of you who have contacted me to offer the most amazing encouragement and support. All phone calls etc are on my list and those people will be contacted early in the new year, including all the retirees.
So – onward and upward.
After leaving Tori and Alex I caught the overnight coach through to Brisbane. Stayed there for one night before heading all the way up the coast to Cairns. What a trip! Have to take my hat off to Greyhound – they do the best job. That trip turned into more of an adventure – all good but all will be revealed in the book. I had three nights in Cairns which I did enjoy, have to admit – but was more than ready to head bush again once that time came. Usually I make the most of these town stops to play catchup – get a blog out if I can, upload and register all photos, make phone calls, whatever. But none of this happened this time. The net wasn’t working in my room and my mobile decided to go on strike. Camera wasn’t very happy either.
An early start on Friday 20th September saw me heading inland again. Cairns would be one of the most stunning places to enter and leave, both by air and road. Winding up to the Atherton Tablelands provides spectacular views back across Cairns, hills and the water – out to the Great Barrier Reef and some of the islands therein. Can’t fault it. And cannot equal it either. Arrived in Georgetown a couple of hours later – actually have two stations there – and another one enroute to Normanton – but for many reasons, two are now being covered by email (they will not be missed out, just have to figure out the best way to bring them in). Tragically there was a fatal light plane crash which occurred while I was traveling further south – I did, at the time, vaguely wonder whether any of ‘my’ stations would be affected. But then I figured – this is the outback that I am writing about so YES of course some of my stations were affected. Direct for a few, as in the deceased were actually relations or extremely close friends for some. Remembering that most of these remote areas in our great nation are very close-knit, so yes this certainly did affect people, far and wide.
Me having the time of my life in a bull catcher.
Some of my plans had last minute changes – all part of the learning process and adventure as far as I am concerned – just a very sad reason. I finished up spending a couple of nights in a lovely little motel in Georgetown itself but Saturday night was spent on the huge Abingdon Downs Station, some hours north of Georgetown. As previously mentioned it is the ‘engine room’ of the Keough Cattle Company and as it turned out, I wouldn’t have missed Abingdon if I was paid to. It is 1.1 million acres small, naturally cattle country, even has crocodiles (still haven’t seen any though), cane toads (almost stepped on one) and just so much more. Absolutely wonderful. Even a gorgeous little foal was born – just for me! – or so I like to think! My hosts, Anita and Campbell had asked all their staff and several other property owners from around the area, to a lovely BBQ in the evening. While tinged with sadness, overall a good time was had by all – especially me.
But oh so dry. Traveling west from Cairns, the countryside does vary hugely but the one common fact – soooo dry. I found it all to be absolutely fascinating and beautiful. While many of the city folk that I talked to during this trip said they had also been out to different places in the outback of Qld., they all had the same opinion. That it’s very boring with nothing to offer.
Homestead. Abingdon Downs Stn. Georgetown. Qld. Sept 2013
Wrong! They are obviously entitled to their opinions, but to me – it couldn’t be more the opposite.
What so many people do not seem to realise, or care about, is that there are people out there. On chatting with many of the stations people I did find that those who have lived out there for most of their lives, sadly do not see a future. That’s horrible. And when they explain their feelings – I do understand. The reasons for this feeling – not going into it here – but some do make my blood boil.
There was one more station on this trip that I did visit, briefly. I did not stay overnight but did visit the house and took many photos (by the way, my camera is playing up so while I do have heaps of photos, they are all coming up as pretty flowers – which is lovely, but not exactly what I want). More lovely people, another very different homestead and surrounds – they all vary so much, so hugely and this fascinates me in itself.
Dingo.
Many stations have graves on them. This particular station is supposedly haunted.
This last property, Old Glenore, belongs to Midge and John Beard. Again a lot of photos taken, including their lagoon – another apparently inhabited by those elusive crocs. All I wanted was one pic – one pic – and nothing more. But ooooooh no – they stayed well and truly out of sight. Still, it is their habitat and not mine so I didn’t intrude any further. Next day I headed further west out to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Karumba was my last outback stay for this trip. Karumba Point to be exact – and what a finale. What a gem of a place. It truly is where the outback meets the sea – right on the Gulf of Carpentaria. It ranks at the top of my favourite places in Australia now. But it was also my last hope of seeing a croc in the wild – and that vanished at dawn on my third morning there when I left and returned to Cairns. Oh well.
Distances really are huge out here. This is not one of the signposts mentioned in the blog but just giving an idea how how big the distances are.
There were a few aspects about Qld particularly that were new to me. Or maybe I just haven’t noticed them before. As I traveled deeper into the outback I noticed that every station, no matter how remote, was well signposted on the main roads. I would have said that meant it’s not easy to become lost – but I know that it is. All these signposts are very neat and tidy – or those that I saw. Very easy to read. Once you leave the main road and head off into the wide blue yonder, it might have been a different matter.
And there was one other thing that I noticed from the very first station in Qld. Not going to tell you a bout it now – but it was something that I found that many of ‘my’ stations appeared to have in common. Apart from the continual struggle to survive and all associated therein, that is. Not sure that I actually liked the idea or not. This mysterious aspect actually scared me – terrified me in fact, but also caused the deepest fascination and desire to know more. And no, it is not spiders.
All will be revealed in our book.
The further west and away from civilization that I headed the more the terrain amazed me. I do love water, I do love lush green grass and general growth, hills and mountains, but the further I ventured into our mighty outback, the more I know that this is the land I love.
Lake in Qld. Bone dry.
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